Mill Dog Survivor Tips

Advice on Caring For a Puppy Mill Survivor

Thank you to everyone who offered ideas on how to help dogs formerly used for breeding or raised in puppy mills. The information below is a work in progress. As people submit advice, we will add to this article.

When you read the following accounts, remember that what works for one dog may not work for another. Read it all over and take what ideas may work for you.

Remember, the information below is provided by our adopters and foster parents. It is practical, first-person advice but not a series of guidelines. Use your best judgment.

 Tip from Sarah H., Colorado

Here’s a tip that worked on Nala, our wonderful Sheltie we adopted from you folks. Nala was an independent soul, who didn’t really see what use humans were. So we took her back to being a puppy. For 3 weeks, I hand fed her. Everything she ate, she got from me. That bonding worked miracles, and lasted throughout her life until she died of cancer in 2010. What a joy she was!

Tips from Bonnie S., Foster/Adopter

Bonnie, of Las Cruces, N.M., has adopted and fostered several traumatized mill dogs from RMCSR.

  • Slow movements toward them.
  • Gentle voice.
  • Palm open and up (fear of hitting the top of head).
  • Patience; let them become comfortable in your home – no expectations on them.
  • They can only learn trust, if you expose them to their fears and nothing bad happens.
  • Reassurances after loud noises so they learn they will not harm.
  • Peaceful feeding time; referee those who eat fast and then try for the others’ food.
  • Treat with the same respect you want to be treated.
  • Positive reinforcement for doing what you want; lots of verbal praise “I’m so proud of you!”
  • Ignore negative behavior; do not respond to it or give any recognition.
  • Frowny faces strong with Shelties; smiley faces as well. They watch you carefully.
  • Don’t look in the eyes directly unless they are challenging you; then hold their stare to prove you are the alpha dog.
  • Regular grooming; feeling good helps a lot.
  • Good food for body and coat, served consistently (2 meals) builds trust when nothing bad happens associated around the food.
  • It can take 8 months or longer before they realize they are “home” and then they begin to blossom and you find out who they really are.
  • Don’t want or know how to be cuddled unless they are really sick. I do “pack cuddle time” every morning and one by one pick up and cuddle, admire, groom and do belly rubs and let them down again. At first they resist and then slowly since I don’t restrain them, they come to love it and wait their turn.
  • Observe their behaviors for clues as to their fears so you don’t aggravate them further and for ways to reassure them.
  • Ask their permission to pick them up and move very slowly and gently.

In sum, PATIENCE, PATIENCE, PATIENCE. It is going to take a long time. Let them trust at their own rate. They are not like undamaged dogs. They are victims of abuse that went on for years.

Tips from Sharon S., Adopter/Positive Reinforcement Trainer

I only have extremely limited experience with puppy mill dogs, but I was a positive reinforcement dog trainer in Illinois and I thought perhaps some of the things we did with fearful dogs might work.

The following method can be used to create a positive association with something that has previously had a negative association (hands, feet, touch, touching sensitive areas, nail clipping etc. etc.). It also keeps all parties safe.

For example, hand fear: Hold up your hand or extend your hand out toward the dog but not close to the dog (say 5 or 6 feet away). Toss or flick a piece of chicken or other very good treat which the dog does not usually get, on the floor near the dog. If the dog will not eat it (but you are sure the dog likes – or loves – that treat) you know you are too close or your hand movement was too large or quick.

Move back, minimize movement, or turn so your side or even your back is facing the dog, or all the above. When the dog leans down and eats the treat, you know you are far enough away or your position/posture is less threatening (the dog now feels safe enough to eat and has given you a good baseline on distance and posture). Repeat this many, many times, very gradually moving closer and/or making larger/quicker movements. As you work with the dog:

  • Always read the dog’s body language. He will ‘tell’ you when you have taken too large a step forward and you need to go less rapidly.
  • Always pair with food, always in this order: hand movement then food, not the other way around.
  • Be sure to use a treat that is REALLY a treat, not used at any other time (chicken, liver, left over hamburger, hotdogs etc.). It’s special. Use VERY small pieces. You can treat with a variety as long as they are . . . really special!!! Only use these treats for very fearful objects. (smelly is good too).
  • Keep distance large enough to not threaten, giving dog as much security as possible.
  • Don’t try to hand feed if fear of hands is an issue.
  • Don’t make direct eye contact. That’s a threat.
  • Keep emotions calm, blink, yawn, give a tongue flick, turn your head slightly away; these are all calming signals that will help to relax the dog, you and the environment. Watch for these signals from the dog because they will tell you if the dog is anxious and if you observe closely, it will sometimes show you what the dog is anxious about. Turid Rugaas’ Calming Signals offers other signals.
  • Change the place where you practice as much and as frequently as possible. This will teach the dog to understand that (for example), sit means sit in the kitchen, the living room, the front steps and down the street. He will not make an unhelpful association with a particular place which could hinder your progress.
  • If things have been going well and there now seems to be a setback, let the training go for a day and then pick it back up. Dogs have bad learning days just like we do. Or perhaps something in the environment has changed that has made the dog nervous.

Tips from Doris Q., Foster/Adopter

If a mill dog won’t eat it may be because she has never eaten out of a dish or bowl. I accidentally spilled some food near a mill dog that was not eating and she gobbled up all the food on the floor. I gradually went from a flat plate to a regular dog bowl. Problem solved.

Tips from Michelle F., Missouri Volunteer

Michelle offers suggestions concerning two behaviors, reactions to other dogs and food aggression.

Reacting to Other Dogs

My female Collie Sandy was used as a breeder before I got her. Sandy is very friendly to other dogs until they start sniffing around her hind end – especially if they are male dogs. So females might be very reluctant to let other dogs get too close if it reminds them of mating.

Food Aggression

Sandy is the only one of my dogs who has any food aggression, which I’m pretty sure comes from having to fight for food. So I feed her separately and keep an eye on her when it’s treat time. Otherwise she’s as docile as a lamb. I think if a person is adopting a puppy mill dog and has multiple dogs, feeding them separately might be wise.

Tips from Deb S., Foster/Adopter

Some advice to encourage shy puppy mill dogs and their fosters:

  • #1 – ROUTINE!!!– Sit on the floor a lot with them (on a leash, if necessary)
  • Take them with you from room to room on a leash
  • Leave on the radio or TV (soothing station) to get them used to calm voices
  • Shy dogs seem to do better with “packs” to help them understand household routines, housebreaking, and returning indoors

Tips From Diane M., Adopter

We’ve had our Gwen (puppy mill Sheltie) for a little over a month now and though we are new to rescuing puppy mill breeders, here is what we have been doing. For the first 10 days our little girl would not move out of the laundry room. We kept waiting for her to get “brave” and it became apparent that she did not have it in her. That’s when I started scooping her up in the evenings and having our “pajama therapy,” cuddling with Gwen on the couch in front of the TV, but that still didn’t do the trick.

What I did next was put the leash on her and now she goes everywhere with me, wherever I go in the house. If I’m doing laundry, she’s with me. If I’m in the bathroom showering and getting ready, she’s with me. If I am getting dinner ready in the kitchen, she’s with me. We drive somewhere, she’s with us. We quit giving her the choice as to when and what to do, that was usually running from us.

Don’t get me wrong – she still runs from us, but now she knows her name and comes from the outside when she is called. She has mastered the doggie door. This morning I noticed while I was showering, water running to brush my teeth, and then had the hair dryer going full blast to dry my hair, she was just laying there, her tail out from her body, her front legs crossed, almost going to sleep. I’d talk to her and say her name and she would look at me and her ears would go up. By no means has this brought her all the way yet, but it really seems to be helping her. Last night Scott was sitting next to her on the carpet and petting her, and she actually laid down on her side and went to sleep!!!!

Anyway, just an idea. When I first started this “tied to me and going everywhere I went in the house,” anything would set Gwen off. Now she walks through the house with more confidence, and we think that is the first step to getting her more comfortable with us. We’re just putting ourselves where ever she is by this method.

So that’s what we are doing with Gwen. And we are getting those baby steps.

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